|
|
|
Moms Around the World:
Cultural insights and advice for parents planning travel to Nairobi with young children from a local mom in the know.
 Elizabeth Mwangi with husband Lincoln and daughters Ayana and Annessa in Nairobi, Kenya. Photo by Classic Model Studios, Nairobi.
Kenya is a nation
of many contrasts, with some 19 national parks and wildlife refuges,
sweeping plains, and soaring mountains, yet it is also home to East
Africa’s most populous city: Nairobi. Nairobi itself, with nearly 3
million residents and an expected increase to 5 million by 2015, is
where all of these contrasts collide. Known as “The Green City in
the Sun,” at just over 1 degree south of the Equator, it remains a
surprisingly green urban space with numerous parks and overall a
dense tree cover. Skyscrapers loom over the bustling metropolis,
which was a British protectorate until just 1963. Yet, you don’t
have to look too far to find the four-legged favorites of Hemingway
and Roosevelt, as just 4 miles from the city center is
Nairobi National Park, home to a successful rhinoceros
sanctuary, giraffes, leopards, and lions, to name a few.
 Elizabeth
Mwangi lives in Nairobi and works for
Catholic Relief Services (CRS), the official international
humanitarian agency of the U.S. Catholic community. As a Justice and
Peacebuilding Officer, she helps oversee projects that promote
justice, human rights and equality across Kenya. Elizabeth is also
the mother of two small girls, and she was very kind to answer my
questions about raising small children in Nairobi. She also shared
her tips for anyone who might be visiting the area with young
children.
Q: Elizabeth,
you haven’t always lived in Nairobi. Can you tell us a little about
the place where you grew up?
Elizabeth:
I was born and raised in Nyeri town, Central Kenya. In comparison to
Nairobi, Nyeri is a small laidback town situated 150 km north of
Nairobi with a population of about 350,000. The majority of the
inhabitants belong to one ethnic group. The main economic activities
are growing coffee and tea and subsistence farming. Some of the
landmarks surrounding the town include Mt. Kenya (the second highest
in Africa), Mt. Kenya national park, and Aberdare National Parks.
Treetops Lodge is also nearby, where Queen Elizabeth II ascended to
the English throne while on a honeymoon retreat in 1952. A number of
renowned people have hailed from Nyeri, most notably the Nobel Peace
Prize winner in 2004, Wangari Maathai, and Mwai Kibaki, Kenya's
current president. My family returns for visits at least four times
a year.
Q: So when did
you come to Nairobi?
Elizabeth:
I moved to Nairobi in 1992 to attend the University of Nairobi.
Since then I have lived in the capital. Nairobi is a vibrant
metropolitan city and the hub of financial and economic activities
in East Africa. It has a population of about 2.7 million. The
population is racially and ethnically mixed.
Q: How does
Nairobi compare with Nyeri?
In comparison to
Nyeri, Nairobi has a lot of advantages. Most headquarters of
government and large companies are based here, you can get anything
you need in the major shopping malls and markets, and the city has a
vibrant social life. While Nyeri is generally cold and rainy,
Nairobi weather is perfect for kids’ outdoor activities during most
of the year. This is great for my family, as we have two daughters:
Ayana who is 4 years old and Annessa who turned one in April 2009.
 Q:
Where are your favorite places to take your kids in Nairobi?
Elizabeth:
One of the favorite places is Jolly Rogers Theme Park and
Restaurant. The Park is designed along a pirate theme, and kids’
activities include inflatable bouncing castles, water slides and
fighting rings, fishing at the nearby lake dam, rock climbing,
swimming and swinging.
We love Jolly
Rogers because of the child-friendly staff who monitor and supervise
the kids so the adults can relax and chat without worrying about the
safety of their kids.
Ayana loves
visiting the
Nairobi National Park’s
Safari Walk and Animal Orphanage. The park is situated about 7
km from downtown. The Safari Walk is a raised boardwalk that
meanders around unique plants and animals that are threatened. The
animal orphanage is home to old and rescued animals and birds of
Kenya. The best time to visit is around 2:30 pm, feeding time.
The
Village Market shopping and recreational complex is also a great
place for the entire family. From monster waterslides to swimming,
bowling, a mini golf course and bouncing castles for younger
children, every family member can find an activity they like.
For mothers will
older kids, the Splash Water World and GP Karting are some of the
best places to visit. They are located side by side at the end of
the Carnivore turn-off on Langata Road. Splash has a variety of
swimming pools and waterslides as well as various electronic games.
It is next door to Nairobi’s only Gokart track, which has
state-of-art Honda-powered carts racing on a 500-metre track
overlooking the Nairobi National Park.
 Q:
Do you have any favorite day trips or special places where you like
to take your children outside of Nairobi?
Elizabeth:
When we get tired of the hustle and bustle of the city life, Ole
Polos is another great outdoor place to visit. The restaurant is
located up on a hill in the Great Rift Valley, about 50 km from the
city centre. They have mouth-watering roasted meat—called nyama
choma in Swahili, Masai traditional dancers, and enough space
for the children to play.
Once or twice a
year during school holidays, we love visiting the coastal town of
Mombasa, on the shores of the Indian Ocean. It’s over 500 km from
Nairobi. Normally, we travel with two to three families for maximum
fun, including swimming, beach walks, water-sports and family
bonding.
Q: Has raising
children in Kenya changed very much since you were a child?
Elizabeth:
Raising children has changed since the days when I was a child.
People used to live with their relatives in the rural areas, while
in the cities and towns, most people knew their neighbors well. This
meant that any adult who knew a given child could discipline them or
inform the parents. Most adults were trusted with kids. Today people
live in their own cocoons with little interaction with others living
nearby. As a result, there has been an increase in cases of missing
children and, sadly, defilements. Now most parents are wary of other
adults.
Kids during my
childhood were very innovative when it came to making toys (cars,
balls, bean bags, dolls) and games. Today, with the advent of
PlayStations, cheap toys, the Internet and cable TV, kids hardly
interact with others.
 Q:
Are working mothers in Kenya allowed any kind of a “maternity leave”
by the government or private businesses when they have a baby?
Elizabeth:
CRS Kenya policy allows 90 days of maternity leave in addition to
one’s annual leave, which is typically one month each year. Fathers
are also given 14 days of paternity leave. In addition, CRS Kenya’s
policy allows expectant mothers to take leave 10 days prior to their
expected day of delivery.
Q: Is it common
to see mothers breastfeeding in Nairobi—or
in other parts of Kenya?
Elizabeth:
The government of Kenya has been promoting exclusive breastfeeding
for infants from birth to 6 months of age. CRS Kenya promotes this
exclusive breastfeeding in the communities where we implement our
relief and development projects. CRS Kenya also promotes this
breastfeeding in our workplace, giving nursing mothers one hour off
each day for breastfeeding until babies are 6 months old. There is
also a furnished room set aside for mothers to express their milk
during office hours and store it in the fridge. In addition, CRS
Kenya policy states that mothers traveling to the field for official
duties should be accompanied by their babies and nannies until
babies turn 2. This is to ensure continued breastfeeding and is
greatly appreciated by new mothers.
Nairobi, however,
has very few facilities that cater to a mother with an infant. It is
very common to see a mother breastfeeding her baby in public without
covering her breasts whether on a bus, in a restaurant, or at the
market. Most mothers do not feel ashamed to expose their breasts. In
fact, Kenyan society expects you to breastfeed once the baby starts
crying, or you’ll be rebuked. This trend is changing though, with
most mothers now covering themselves as they breastfeed. Some mother
now feel breastfeeding is not so “cool” and stop it after a few
months.
 Q:
What advice do you have for nursing mothers who will be visiting
Nairobi and Kenya?
Elizabeth:
Nursing mothers traveling to Nairobi should feel free to breastfeed
in public if they are comfortable dong so. Most restaurants have no
issues allowing mothers to breastfeed at the table. Modern shopping
malls are starting to take the needs of nursing mothers into account
and provide areas for breastfeeding in the babies’ changing room
section of public toilets.
Q: Are there car
seat or seatbelt laws in Kenya?
Elizabeth:
Not wearing a seatbelt results in a fine of around $6. However, very
few people own cars—less than 30% of the population. Although
children below 12 years are by law not supposed to sit in the front
seat, the traffic police rarely arrests offenders. The Kenyan law is
silent on baby car seats, but most upper middle class to rich
families have car seats for their babies. Some rental car companies
have car seats as well.
Q: Is public
transportation a good option for parents traveling with children?
Elizabeth:
Public transportation in Kenya is not like that of developed
countries. Most residential estates and suburbs in Nairobi have
public vehicles plying the roads. Each route has a specific number
you need to look out for when boarding. The most popular form of
public transport is the matatu, a 14-seater Nissan minibus,
but they drive very fast and some can be dangerous to use. There are
also several bus companies operating within the city areas, with the
most common ones being Metro and City Hoppa. These are
better to use since they operate under strict company regulations.
There is a train
that travels to various parts of the country. If you want to be
comfortable, travel First Class. Buses and shuttles to various parts
of the countries also run on regular schedules, with various classes
of shuttles to choose from.
 Q:
What is the best way to get around Nairobi with children?
Elizabeth:
The best option would be to take a taxi. Even though they are
expensive by African standards, they are still affordable, with most
rides costing between $3 and $10. Taxis are not metered, and a price
should be agreed with the driver before departure. Ask for local
advice or at your hotel for appropriate rates. The majority of taxis
are marked with a yellow line.
Renting a car is
another option, with rentals running around $45 per day. Visitors to
Kenya can drive using an international driver’s license. Driving is
on the left-hand side of the road. Distances are measured and
signposted in kilometers and petrol is sold by the litre.
Q: Is it common
to see children in restaurants in Nairobi?
Elizabeth:
It is common to see children in restaurants in Nairobi, but toddlers
and very young children are rarely seen in restaurants with very
formal settings. Most restaurant owners make their restaurants
“child-friendly” on Sundays, which is the main family outing day in
Nairobi.
In
order for both the kids and the parents to relax, restaurants with
comfortable seats and safe playing grounds are good choices,
including the Carnivore, Jolly Rogers, Mamba Village, Pizza Garden,
Panafric Hotel, For You, and the Royale Club out in the suburbs. If
you have a small baby and no baby pram, I suggest avoiding food
courts at the major malls, otherwise you’ll be holding the baby
throughout your meal.
Q: Where can
visiting parents find diapers, baby food, and baby medicines?
Elizabeth:
Most Kenyan babies are weaned on organic foods, cooked once or twice
a day. The typical diet includes mashed bananas, potatoes, pumpkin,
spinach, carrots, tomatoes, peas and beans as well as fruit and
porridge made from a mixture of corn flour and ground finger millet
or sorghum. These foods are readily available in Nairobi’s malls and
markets. Other imported baby foods, diapers (most people call them
“Pampers” after the diaper brand by the same name) and medicines are
found in most shops and pharmacies across the city.
In case of urgent
need of baby supplies and medicine, several branches of the
Nakumatt supermarkets are open 24 hours. Uchumi
supermarkets also have a delivery service, but they do not operate
24 hours.
Most people in
Nairobi, particularly in shopping malls, speak English, so no
special words should be necessary.
 Q:
Do you have any other tips for parents visiting your corner of the
world?
Elizabeth:
There is so much to see in Kenya—more than you would ever expect,
from the more than 48 wildlife conservation areas, cultures
unchanged by the modern world, pristine beaches, coral reef,
equatorial forests and mighty snow-capped mountains. Kenya has
endless opportunities for adventure, discovery, and relaxation.
Families should come and experience our traditional ethnic cuisines,
dances and theatres. The tropical weather is perfect for children of
all ages.
Just like in any
other country, parents need to be careful all the time and travel
safely and wisely. In order not to experience major culture shock,
it’s also advisable to research and read widely about Kenya,
recommended vaccinations and medications before arriving. But
overall, you should enjoy your time here.
Elizabeth, I thank
you so much for giving us a glimpse of life in Nairobi, and for
sharing your photos and tips that I’m sure will help many families
planning travel to Kenya. Thanks also to the photographers featured
in this article and the corresponding slideshow:
N.D. Strupler,
Demosh,
Paul Mannix,
Colin Jackson, and Classic Model Studios of Nairobi.
Shelly Rivoli
is the author of the award-winning guide
Travels with Baby: The Ultimate Guide for Planning Travel with Your Baby,
Toddler, and Preschooler.
Browse all Moms Around the World features by Shelly Rivoli
Copyright (c) 2009 - 2014 Shelly Rivoli, author of Travels with Baby. All rights reserved. Adapted from an earlier article by Shelly Rivoli that appeared in the national edition of Examiner.com.
|
|
