After we rambled on through Yosemite, catching waterfalls and wildflowers in their prime, we dipped down to Mammoth Lakes where we had the great pleasure of building a snowman on summer vacation (don’t miss my Mammoth tips & review on TravelSavvyMom.com—with video!). Then it was time to head north on our Eastern Sierra family road trip adventure.

As we drove along the almost lunar landscape of Mono Lake, we were faced with a tough decision: To Bodie, or not to Bodie? Bodie State Historic Park is one of the United States’ biggest and best-preserved ghost towns. While it sounds like a natural road stop for any family traveling along Highway 395 you should be forewarned, as we were, that “The Road to Bodie” is a 13-mile stretch that may take a few years off your tires. And when you get there, don’t expect to find flush toilets and shave ice. Or shade. As you can see, we decided to go for it.

The Road to Bodie (a.k.a. CA 270) quickly transformed to a glorified asphalt that somehow reminded me of hiking Hawaii’s Big Island. After 10 miles, it became an official washboard, dirt-rock affair which may have added another mile to the final stretch as we dodged and veered the jagged monoliths and marveled that horse-drawn carriages had ever survived passage here. I braced the baby’s head between my hands as he jiggled in his infant car seat. But it was too late, and too narrow, to turn back.


At last Bodie came into view. Our eyes popped, seeing buildings stretch for several city blocks, and dirt roads wending on up to the old mill on the hill. I could see now that the $2 self-guided tour book I’d purchased at the entrance was going to be more useful than I’d expected (proceeds support the Friends of Bodie). We found space in the dirt parking lot and quickly determined the stroller (with its thankfully rugged pneumatic wheels) would be the best option for keeping Baby Theo shaded and sheltered from the wind.

With sunhats, water, and snacks, we set out to explore the streets of Bodie. At around 8,500 ft. elevation with nary a shade tree in sight, hit by the full force of the Eastern Sierra winds at high noon, I was suddenly reminded of an expression I’d often read in history books: “Died of exposure.” How this town, which began with a handful of miners in 1859, somehow supported a population of 10,000 just 20 years later is a true marvel.

It was not an easy place to live—in fact, someone died there nearly every day. Most deaths, however, were due to gunpowder-peppered disagreements among the salty miners, prospectors, gamblers, and outlaws who largely populated the town (that’s a Bodie-style hearse in the one-room museum you’ll find on Main Street). But there were also plenty of families in Bodie, as well, and I nearly stopped in my tracks as I ventured inside the Tom Miller home and found this antique baby “dining booster” parked on a kitchen chair.

The layers of linoleum also found in this house reveal the story of how the town rose and finally fell in the late 1930s. Bodie has been a California State Park since 1962. There are nearly 200 structures still standing in Bodie, and some 80 headstones remaining in the Bodie Cemetery. There are no hotdog stands, however, so be sure to bring plenty of snacks and refreshments for your crew.

All in all, we are very glad we went. Particularly since we made it out without a flat tire or broken axle. If you’re heading to Bodie with a baby or young children, I offer these additional tips:

Tips for your family’s visit to Bodie:

• A jogger or all-terrain stroller may help protect your child from the sun and wind, but it will limit your access to the few old buildings that are open to visitors.
• In the summer, expect it to feel hot in the sun and most likely cold in the shade (where you’ll find it along the old store fronts and in buildings), so dress everyone in breathable layers.
• If you need a breastfeeding stop, there are benches in front of the museum. While they’re shaded in the afternoon, it’s a pretty cold shade and not exactly private. Both good reasons to bring an extra baby blanket along.
• It’s windy. And dusty. You’ll be glad to have a lightweight windbreaker and sunglasses (also for the kids).
• Make sure your vehicle is in good shape and well-fueled before turning onto the Road to Bodie, as you cell phone likely won’t help you if you should need roadside assistance, and it can be tough “catching a ride out” for help when you have a family-size group, some of whom ride in car seats. (And I wouldn’t want to be left behind!)
• Stock up on extra provisions (O Pioneers!) at the towns of Lee Vining or Bridgeport before visiting Bodie, and be sure to carry your water and some snacks with you as you explore. Once you get started, it’s a long way back to the car.
• Bring the camera, and extra batteries or film. You could go crazy taking photos of this place.
  
  View Bodie Historic State Park, California in a larger map

The park is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer months, and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in winter—though subject to weather conditions. For more information about Bodie, including some of the legends and lore, and a great slideshow, check out www.Bodie.com. This post is part of Photo Friday at DelciousBaby.com.

Safe journey,

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
travelswithbaby.com

The post The Road to Bodie appeared first on Travels With Baby.

This photo that I snapped while standing behind the South Falls only shows a part of the waterfall, but it’s a good example of the landscape you’ll find here and the memorable experiences to be had throughout this park–even if you only take the .5 mile hike to this very vantage point. Standing here, you can feel the roar of the falls travel your bones as the mist settles on your cheeks. There are several short hikes with impressive pay-offs, or you can opt to see all of the water falls on the 7-mile “Trail of Ten Falls” (a.k.a. Canyon Trail). You can view the park’s trail map online as a PDF at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/images/pdf/silverfalls_trailmap.pdf . William Sullivan, author of the “100 Hikes” guidebooks, has some good hiking suggestions for Silver Falls online that may also help you plan your attack.

With ten water falls impressing visitors even at summer’s end (though spring snow melt makes for the most spectacular falls), Silver Falls is truly a special–if not magical–place to visit. Anyone wanting to see Oregon’s lush, green temperate rain forest, will find one of the best examples here. Layer upon layer of ferns and shamrocks, Douglas fir trees, hemlocks, and mossy rocks crowd happily into every view. I marveled as I strolled beside a hedge of maidenhair ferns as high as my hips, and that’s when I saw the fabled “fairy train” caterpillar (black with a row of yellow windows down its side), which my great grandma always said brought good luck. I am lucky to be here, I thought, as I showed the fairy train to my daughters.
Good to know:
While there are some safety fences here and there along the trails, there are still steep staircases, drop offs, and slippery areas on trails, especially where you walk behind the larger falls. With my active toddler wanting (and needing) to be very much on her own two feet, I was glad to have our Safe-Fit backpack harness along for her (with an extra diaper/wipes, snacks, and sippy cup) to attach to my belt loop as a back up (I recommend a carabiner clip for quick attach & release–and of course, a sturdy belt loop).

With smaller children, you’ll want a good backpack or frontpack carrier while on the trails. If you’re wearing a framed backpack carrier, take extra care of your child’s clearance above you if you need to duck beneath an occasional rocky overhang.

As with most lush, green places in Oregon, even a hot sunny day elsewhere may leave you wanting a jacket or at least long sleeves while hiking the falls. You’ll also want to bring along your own water, lunch and/or plenty of snacks if you plan to spend much time in the park since you’ll have a hard time finding it here.

The Pearsons, a local family living near the park, offer some more helpful tips on their own website: http://www.silverfallspark.org/PT/ParkTips.html, including the all-important note that there are no restrooms along the trails, so be sure to use the lovely pit toilets at the parking areas or restrooms at the picnicking/camping areas before you venture out too far.

When you go:
Silver Falls State Park is approximately a 1-hour drive from Portland, and you may save some time during heavy traffic by taking Hwy 99 E. If you come from Salem, or via I-5, it is 26 miles east of Salem on Hwy 22, just be sure to follow the signs for Hwy 214, which will lead you through Silverton and on to the park. You will need to purchase a $3 day-use pass for your visit, unless you are paying a fee to stay overnight in the park or have another Oregon State Parks pass. The park is open year-round, except in the case of a severe weather closure. More information at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_211.php.

Explore some more:
Just 15 minutes down the road, the city of Silverton offers up an irresistible small-town experience that’s stood the test of time and strip malls remarkably well. Seriously, they still have penny parking meters in the picturesque olde downtown and an annual pet parade–and don’t miss the “davenport races” if you happen through town during Homer Davenport Days, named for the late 19th century cartoonist who was born and raised in Silverton.

Antique shops, flea markets, boutiques, bohemian cafes, elegant eateries, and everybody’s favorite greasy spoon (you’ll know when you see it) are all within a pleasant stroll of the small downtown area, which is made all the more charming in summer months by dozens of hanging flower baskets overflowing with petunias (the likes of which will rival any window box in Europe). And if you have the chance, pop by for a show at the independent movie house on the corner where you’ll be treated to a slideshow of inspirational quotes and quick wit before the show, rather than a barrage of violent previews (the popcorn’s not bad either).

Silverton is also home to The Oregon Garden, an 80-acre botanical wonderland with 20 themed gardens and one house by Frank Lloyd Wright. Children under 7 years may visit the Oregon Garden free, and those that do will want to be sure and check out the special “Children’s Garden” made just for them. Note to the stroller set: Yes, it’s very stroller friendly as everything is wheelchair accessible. The Oregon Garden also hosts a summer concert series with names you will know, and children of all ages are welcome at the concerts, with free admission for those under 2 years.

For kicks, you can visit the “Gallon House Covered Bridge” on the edge of town. It used to be the oldest covered bridge in Oregon, but it had to be rebuilt in 1990. When Silverton was dry, this was the place where locals sought their booze in one-gallon home-stilled jugs. Nowadays, however, they can buy their liquor right in town at the one official liquor store–except, ahem, on Sundays (per Oregon state law).